Medieval Traditions Kept Alive
Christmas in Ludlow
 The town and castle of Ludlow sit splendidly on top of a cliff overlooking the River Teme. Normans planned the town, making it what the poet, Betjeman, called “The most perfect town in England.” Whether the visitor is a home-grown Briton or a foreign traveller, the town is, magnificently, ‘Olde England’.
Ludlow is in the Welsh Marches, that no-go area for the ancients, who preferred a bit of distance between Anglicised gentry and unruly Welsh warriors. The town is still set out as it was in medieval times, with a market square on the edge of the castle. It also has one of the largest parish churches in England, a sign of its former importance. The buildings in the old town are mainly medieval and Georgian; over 500 of them are listed as ancient, requiring protection. Broad Street has been described as the most beautiful street in Britain. It seems fitting, then, that Ludlow hosts a medieval Christmas fayre at the end of each November.
On the Saturday of the Fayre, there is also a local produce market outside the Castle, in the Square. This is where stallholders enter into the spirit of the day by wearing medieval costumes. And they sell things outlawed by the infamous E.U., such as organic irregular-sized vegetables and tasty apples!
Many ancient British towns began as muddy fields where cattle and produce were bartered. Some traders stayed on site and, slowly, a typical cross-road village emerged, centred on the market. Where there was a narrow site, there might only be one road, running straight through the market.
By contrast, British castles were usually sited for military reasons, especially on the wild Welsh and Scottish borders, a defence against marauders and those who didn’t want English rule (a bit like today!). Dwellings inevitably start to spring up around their walls, in the hope that the castle inhabitants would protect them in the event of an attack. Like most other similar sites, Ludlow town started as one such wall-hugger, and spread out gradually to form the historic town we see today.
 The castle declined in the 1600’s, though medieval Ludlow was itself becoming prosperous, a popular meeting place for the gentry. It was not until the Earl of Powis bought the castle in 1811 that it began a struggle back to its former glory.
The castle is open to the public and hosts a number of events. The month of May sees Craft and Transport Festivals; for three weeks in June and July there is the open-air production of a Shakespeare play. In September there is the Ludlow Marches Food and Drink Festival, with an astounding array of home-made and short-run produce. In late November comes the colourful Medieval Christmas Fayre. All try to keep tradition alive.
Christmas Fayre Frolics
Hand-crafted goods, historic items and foods, the makers dressed in medieval costume. St Nicholas for the kids. Musicians, minstrels, jugglers, giants, artisans, knights in armour, seasonal food, festivities, all closely styled on the medieval. After dark – medieval sights and sounds, of carols, customs and carousing!
If you don’t get too close, listen to the Singing Plague Victims, or authentic medieval music played by Hautbois and Piva on medieval instruments, the sounds haunting and harmonious in a way not heard in modern music. There are usually old west-country carols sung by the Stanchester Squire. In 2006 the Fayre saw the first appearance of the Shrewsbury Mummers and the medieval giant, King Stephen with Baron Swyndlestock. They are now a regular feature.
The Plantagenet Society’s fighting knights didn’t fight their way around the field in historical medieval fashion because of mud, and had to use a platform. But the fights were realistic… loud, thumping and well choreographed! The kids in the audience were enthusiastic as swords and axes came crashing down on battered knights, steel ringing against steel! Thankfully, like the ‘A’ Team, not a drop of blood was shed, though there was plenty of rumpus! Don’t be fooled – the armour and weapons are all real!
The Heuristics presented Christmas past. Brother Sid, the dancing giant, and Wynndbagge & Skynntite, provided great jestorial comedy, Sid entering the tent suddenly and giving a really funny dance and improvised additional material.
Then there were Gerry the Rope, Jim the Potter, Dave the Monier and the Mulberry Dyers, all showing what artisans got up to earning an honest groat, plus many stalls to tempt palate and sight! There is even a kitchen selling meals cooked to genuine medieval recipes. In fact, this Fayre boasts a vast number of stalls, most of them very interesting and all under cover.
The Fayre promises plenty to do and see, but gloriously states that the people listed may, or may not, attend and play, fight, show, etc! I love it!
A Day Well Spent
I stayed at a Travelodge motel about 20 miles away – if you book early enough you can get a room that can hold a family of 4 or 5 for just £19! You can get breakfast next door at a Little Chef, but that’s not my cup of tea. We went to the local supermarket instead, where a cooked breakfast is much cheaper.
 Finding Ludlow is easy, but try to avoid going into the town itself on festival days. The roads in the centre are very narrow (Medieval!) and get congested. There are a few car parks but these get filled quickly. It is better to watch out for ‘Park and Ride’ signs on the outskirts, and to use the shuttle bus.
Strolling through the produce market, we reached the castle gate. Outside were members of an historic enactment group that specialises in the 100 Years War, dressed in armour and colourful costume. I asked one of them how long it took to get his costume together. “Ten years! We tend to make much of it ourselves, or swap with each other.” The armour itself is not made of tin cans, either! “We have our armour made by an armourer, to authentic designs. A full suit with armour costs about £5000 - £10,000.” Now, that’s dedication – and he looked magnificent.
Up the cobbled road to the entrance tent, to pay medieval wenches with modern money, and have a day stamp on the back of the hand. This allows you to leave the site and return the same day. Everyone dressed in costume not only made everything more magical, it also helped to focus the mind on what medieval means.
Right there was the giant monk, Sid, dancing a jig on the special boards put down over the field. Though the weather had been foul, there was no fear of getting muddy. Well done to the organisers!
There were tents everywhere, housing stalls and events. The main tents are linked together, making a huge area, which was just as well – the crowd was huge, too, and people kept coming throughout the day. The atmosphere was amazingly friendly and good-humoured, making it a pleasure to be there.
Whilst half our party continued on a long round of shopping, I went to find the source of the singing. There they were, in the beer tent. The events were well attended, and seating was taken up quickly, so I stood at the side. Four costumed folks, called Piva, were playing medieval instruments and the sound was brooding and mellow, blending beautifully. If musicians like this did not keep the music alive, this part of our history would disappear forever.
Out again to see the giant King Stephen making his stately way around the field, and Baron Swyndlestock commanding people to make way, and rightly so, especially as he was about 15 or 20 feet tall!
Sadly I went into the town for some cooked lunch. I should have stayed inside the tent… I later discovered the food tent, where medieval recipes were on offer. Instead I had one of the worst pub meals I have ever had! (If you go, avoid the black-painted pub through the arch off the main square!). The event also had food stalls selling venison, boar, and other meaty baguettes.
Over the moat and we found the fighting Plantagenet knights. This was no pretend soft-stuff. They battered six-bells out of each other, with real axes and swords! So, the sound of metal on armour and shield was loud and realistic. The knights used tactics designed to make noise, not blood, but it was well worth watching.
Back to the tents to watch an hilarious couple, The Singing Plague Victims, dressed in rags. They entered the tent pushing a barrow and a pretend baby made of wood and straw. All of them had inordinately long noses. The man started playing an accordion, which, for some reason, was hidden under a hessian sack. The woman began singing with raucous, armour-piercing notes, and the whole tent erupted in laughter! Their rendition of the Twelve Days of Christmas was hilarious; amazing entertainment. Then along came the comedy duo, Wynndbagge and Skynntite. They were joined by Brother Sid, who gave an impromptu performance. He doesn’t speak, but everyone loved him.
We were unable to stay for the evening events, because we had to travel home, but I have no doubt they were just as entertaining. The Fayre carried on to the next day, Sunday, so if you decide to attend in 2010, there is plenty of opportunity to get there and see something of the packed itinerary. And don’t miss the town itself – a breathtaking medieval feast in itself.
I thoroughly enjoyed myself. Next time I will eat in the medieval food tent! And I will stay longer, so that I can take in every event, all of which were top quality and authentic. It takes a lot of effort to research and present medieval material, and to make medieval clothing, so all the event characters are to be commended. Obviously, in November, weather is variable to say the least, but the event is more than enough to compensate.
The organisers are to be commended, too. The planning takes time and effort. I know events are put on to earn an income, but there was no superficiality about it and participants, whether stallholders or players, blended well. Everything was medieval and traditional. And so our history, a valuable resource taking us back to our roots, was made alive. Don’t miss the event in 2010!
Event: 10am to 4pm and evening, 6pm to 9pm, Saturday and Sunday. End of November – check for actual date each year.
Directions to Ludlow, Shropshire: Take the A49 from Hereford to Shrewsbury. Or, from Birmingham, travel west on the A456 through Kidderminster.
Medieval Fayre: or telephone 01588 650307
Ludlow Castle:
General town Information:
At certain times of the year a ‘park-and-ride’ scheme operates. You will see signs on the main approaches to Ludlow.
If you really want to drive into the town, go to the general town site (above) and find ‘pay and display’ car park locations, but I recommend using the park and ride facility.
Barry Napier runs christiandoctrine.com.
The Global Green Agenda’, Barry Napier. Published, Petra Press, 2009.
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