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Coco Lezzone

Mediterranean Magic in the Heart of Little Italy

Mediterranean Magic in the Heart of Little Italy

Coco Lezzone 602 College St. Toronto 416-535-1489 Hours: Monday - Sunday Dinner 4:30 p.m. - 2:00 a.m. Reservations Required

National Post — Brett Halliday — July 10^th 2003

Pure joy is the only way to describe Coco Lezzone in the heart of Little Italy, a totally terrific eatery that harmonizes prima cuisine, served with a backdrop of rich natural earth tones that sets the stage for an evening of culinary memories! Under the guidance of ex-Montrealer, European-born host, Steven Salari, this 30-something restauranteur is a rare breed of ‘ambitious integrity,’ who also lays claims to two other successful hotspots in the area.

But it was Coco Lezzone where we spent several hours of raptured dining while enjoying marvellous company enhanced by the slick unobtrusive music in the background. Along the way I realized why Steven is such a perfectionist for he will not, I repeat, will not settle for second best; nor will any of his staff as they all insist on a hands-on approach.

Coco’s menus are concise. All recipes are prepared at the open kitchen (which I also inspected with equal enthusiasm) as we began Beef Carpaccio (thinly sliced "AAA" beef marinated in brandy, marsala and port--finished with lemon, extra virgin olive oil, and shaved Parmiggiano) so very sexy and light on the palate! I followed with the Grilled Swordfish enveloped in a Wasabi-Jus, demi-glaze sautéed and served on top of scoops of mashed potatoes with sides of hunter-green watercress.

Devised by Steve, it’s a 10-star presentation, extremely flavourful and a must sampler! We also suggest that you test the truly diverse Seafood Antipasto Platter, a dish dressed to impress even the most jaded diner. For dessert we shared a huge bouquet of exotic fresh fruits including Lichee, Paw Paw, Dragon fruit and Chocolate Tartufo with varied ice creams.

How sweet it is at 602 College St.